Polki vs Kundan: the real difference explained simply

Think of it like cooking. Polki is an ingredient. Kundan is a recipe. You can use the recipe with different ingredients: glass, coloured stones, or uncut diamonds. When the ingredient is uncut diamond, people call the piece polki jewellery, even though it may have been set the Kundan way.

So when someone asks 'Is this Kundan or polki?', the honest answer can sometimes be 'both'. For everyday buying, though, the question usually means: are these stones glass that looks bright and even, or are they uncut diamonds (or a polki-look stone) with a raw, frosty character?

Put the two next to each other and the differences become easy to spot once you know where to look.

• Surface: Kundan stones have a flat, glassy face. Polki stones have uneven, slightly rough faces because they are not cut into neat facets.
• Shine: Kundan reflects a smooth, mirror-like glow from its foil backing. Polki has a softer, hazy sparkle, sometimes described as a frosted or milky look.
• Shapes: Kundan stones are usually uniform. Real polki pieces vary from stone to stone, because each uncut diamond has its own shape.
• Colour: Kundan glass comes in clear white plus reds, greens and blues. Polki is mostly white to greyish-white.

You will often hear a third word in the same conversation: Jadau. Jadau broadly refers to the craft of embedding stones into metal by hand, and in everyday use it overlaps heavily with Kundan. Some jewellers use Jadau for the setting work done in softened gold and Kundan for the pure gold foil used in it; others treat the two words as the same thing.

For a buyer, the practical takeaway is simple. Kundan and Jadau describe how a piece is made. Polki describes what kind of stone is used. A 'polki Jadau necklace' therefore means uncut diamonds set by hand in the traditional way.

Real polki is fine jewellery. You are paying for natural diamonds and gold, so it is a major purchase that a family usually makes with a trusted jeweller and proper paperwork. Real Kundan in gold is also expensive, but the stones are typically glass, so most of the value sits in the gold and the labour.

Fashion versions of both are a different world. Imitation Kundan uses glass stones on a plated brass base. Polki-look jewellery uses uncut-style stones, often CZ or glass shaped to mimic that raw texture. These are made to be worn and enjoyed, not to hold resale value, and that is perfectly fine for most wedding and festive wardrobes.

Kundan is the brighter, more colourful choice. It works beautifully with deep reds, maroons and bottle greens, and with heavily embroidered lehengas where you want the jewellery to match the drama.

Polki and polki-look pieces feel quieter and more 'old money'. They pair well with pastels, ivory, gold tissue and subtle zardozi, and they suit brides who want a vintage feel. Many brides now wear polki-look for the main ceremony and switch to Kundan or AD for the reception, or the other way round.

If you want to see the polki-look style, Varaha's Heritage collection includes polki-look and Russian-stone sets alongside American Diamond designs.

Sellers and shoppers use these words loosely, so ask directly rather than relying on the name of the product.

• Are these real uncut diamonds, or polki-look stones? If real, is there a certificate or a written bill describing them?
• What is the base metal: gold, silver, brass or alloy?
• Is the finish gold plating, and in what tone (bright, antique, mehandi)?
• Is the back finished neatly, with meena or a closed plate?
• What is the return policy if the piece looks different in person?

Whether it is Kundan or polki, real or fashion, the setting does not like water, perfume or harsh cleaners. Wipe the piece with a soft cloth after each wear, keep it flat and wrapped in tissue, and store it away from bathroom humidity. For real polki, have a jeweller check the settings once in a while, especially before a wedding season.