Choker or long necklace: picking by face shape and neckline

A necklace draws a line across your body. A choker draws a horizontal line close to the jaw, which makes the area around the face look wider and shorter. A long necklace draws a vertical line or a deep U, which pulls the eye downwards and makes the face and neck look longer.

Once you understand that, choosing becomes simpler. You are deciding which direction you want to lead the eye: across, or down. Neither is better; it depends on what you want to balance.

Look straight into a mirror with your hair pulled back and notice the overall outline of your face. Then use this as a starting point:

Most faces are a mix of two shapes, so do not worry about fitting one label exactly. Notice which feature you most want to balance, such as full cheeks or a long chin, and follow that.

• Round face: long necklaces and V or drop shapes add length. A very tight round choker can make the face look fuller. If you love chokers, choose one with a pointed centre drop.
• Oval face: most styles suit you, so choose based on neckline and outfit instead.
• Long or oblong face: chokers and short, broad necklaces add width and balance. Very long, narrow pendants can make the face look even longer.
• Square face: softer, curved shapes and longer U-shaped necklaces ease a strong jawline. Very angular, geometric chokers can sharpen it further.
• Heart face, wider at the forehead and narrow at the chin: chokers and necklaces with fullness near the bottom balance a narrow chin well.

Face shape is only half the picture. A long, slender neck shows off a choker beautifully, because there is plenty of space between jaw and collarbone. A shorter neck can feel crowded by a tall, stiff choker; a flatter choker that sits low, or a long necklace, usually feels more comfortable and looks more balanced.

Your shoulders play a part as well. Broad shoulders carry wide bib necklaces and chokers easily. Narrow shoulders often look best with longer, lighter pieces that do not overwhelm the frame.

Even the perfect necklace for your face can clash with the wrong blouse. High necks leave no room for a choker, so a long necklace over the blouse or statement earrings work better. Boat and off-shoulder necklines leave a wide stretch of skin that chokers fill well. Deep V and sweetheart necklines welcome long necklaces, or a choker layered with a long piece so the eye moves down into the neckline.

If your face shape points one way and your neckline the other, the neckline usually wins, simply because a necklace that sits badly on the blouse looks wrong no matter what face it frames.

Many Indian bridal looks pair a choker with a long rani haar, and this combination can suit almost anyone if proportions are right. The choker frames the face; the long necklace adds length. Together they balance each other.

Keep a clear gap between the two layers so they do not tangle or overlap. With a round face, let the long necklace be the more prominent of the two. With a long face, let the choker lead. Our bridal jewellery page shows several choker and haar combinations, and you can find single chokers and long sets among our Kundan necklace sets.

Weight is worth checking too. A choker and haar together can be heavy by the end of a long ceremony, so if you are not used to bridal jewellery, choose a lighter haar and let the choker carry most of the detail.

Before buying, try this at home with your actual blouse or a top with the same neckline.

• Tie your hair the way you plan to wear it on the day.
• Hold a scarf or chain tightly at the base of the neck to imitate a choker, then let it drop lower to imitate a long necklace.
• Step back so you can see your shoulders and waist, not just your face.
• Take a photo of each option and compare them side by side later.
• Ask one honest friend which photo looks more like you, not which necklace they prefer.